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REVIEW

 

nº87 / CHEZ LULU / HYÈRES / FRANCE

Updated: 6 days ago

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A Mediterranean French-Italian restaurant, Chez Lulu, is well-hidden in the South of France, in Hyères, below the Villa Noailles. Lunch or dinner? If you are lucky to get a table.



Review by Zoltan Alexander




THE INSTIGATOR / Castello Ruspoli / photo Tao Ruspoli


CHEZ

LULUThe only address you need to know in Hyères, apart from the Villa Noailles



Prisencolinensinainciusol

 

What? If you can pronounce it, you are definitely the right customer Chez Lulu. Indeed, there is no meaning to Adriano Celentano’s rebellious song from 1972, with Raffaella Carrà.


Does it matter? And who does not know this song, anyway?

If you do, Chez Lulu is indeed the right place for you to be.

 



THE INSTIGATOR / Castello Ruspoli / photo Tao Ruspoli
THE INSTIGATOR / Castello Ruspoli / photo Tao Ruspoli

PHOTO / (top) Jardin Remarquable / Photo © Courtesy of Zoltan Alexander / (bottom) Chez Lulu / Photo © Courtesy of Chez Lulu



Not far from Toulon, in a hidden corner of the South of France, Hyères is well-known for the great philanthropist Marie-Noëlle de Noailles’ summer house, the Villa Noailles, where Jean Cocteau, Luis Bunuel, Salvador Dali and many of their eccentric friends spent some endless and careless time. Today, the Villa hosts the Festival d’Hyères, the International Fashion and Photographic Festival in mid-October, and the Design Parade Hyères in June.

 

Just below the Villa Noailles and the famous Jardin Remarquable, there is a small family-run Mediterranean restaurant, Chez Lulu, situated in the heart of the city, on a pedestrian street Îles d’Or.


Opened in 2009, this unique culinary inspiration is a vibrant gastronomic palette created by owner and rather unconventional chef Jean-Étienne Parrocel and his culinary muse partner Lulu, alias Lucienne Ferrer.




THE INSTIGATOR / Castello Ruspoli / photo Tao Ruspoli

PHOTO / Interior Chez Lulu / Photo © Courtesy of Chez Lulu

 


The menu changes daily and seasonally, featuring the best of the best Italian dishes prepared with love - love for food, and love for each other.

 

"Essentially, we are monopolising Italian cuisine that is deeply regional. When you’re in Tuscany, you don’t eat Ligurian food, and when you’re in Sicily, you don’t eat Tuscan," Jean-Étienne explains with a certain rigour but with a great smile.

 

Then Lulu joins in - “We often travel to pick up the goods ourselves when the quantities are too small to ship. Every product we sell is hand-picked and tested by us. We are loyal and have kept the same suppliers over the years. We frequently go to Panzano in Chianti to the butcher Dario Cecchini, pass by at Gianferrari, near Parma, for cured meats and cheeses, and, of course, Florence, where Jean-Étienne’s sister Anne-Marie runs a wine shop.”




THE INSTIGATOR / Castello Ruspoli / photo Tao Ruspoli

PHOTO / Mozzarella di Bufala Chez Lulu / Photo © Courtesy of Chez Lulu



Chez Lulu, the small terrace is famous for its best ambience, filled with loyal friends, international stars, artists, photographers, and designers; however, the restaurant remains a very cosy, familiar place where one could only dream of having a table. The heart of the place, the radiant Lulu, takes care of the guests, and with her, there is no small talk, just real connections.



THE INSTIGATOR / Castello Ruspoli / photo Tao Ruspoli
THE INSTIGATOR / Castello Ruspoli / photo Tao Ruspoli

PHOTO / Salads Chez Lulu / Photo © Courtesy of Chez Lulu



What’s on the menu?

 

Each dish radiates the generosity of home-style cooking. The restaurant serves exquisite French and Italian cuisine, starting with Mozzarella di Bufala, followed by Perugina sausages with polenta, Carpaccio and Puntarella salad, and the famous pasta dishes with seafood. And the seafood is fresh, fresh, fresh!


They have artisanal pasta from Puglia, made with hand-selected organic wheat ground in traditional mills. "It’s our signature dish. The pasta comes from Gravina in Puglia, my brother-in-law’s village,” explains Jean-Étienne, then adds jokingly, “I only have to finish cooking it in the pan. That’s my secret."




THE INSTIGATOR / Castello Ruspoli / photo Tao Ruspoli
THE INSTIGATOR / Castello Ruspoli / photo Tao Ruspoli

PHOTO / Ravioli and below Spaghetti al Nero di Seppia Chez Lulu / Photo © Courtesy of Chez Lulu



The menu continues with Lemon Ravioli, peppered Pancetta and Arugula, Linguine alle Vongole, Millerighe al Tonno, Spaghetti al Nero di Seppia, Gnocchi with Porcini mushrooms and Gorgonzola. All paired with a fine bottle of Taurasi from Campania, a glass of Barolo of Piedmontes, or Chianti of Toscane, from Castellare du Castellina. 




THE INSTIGATOR / Castello Ruspoli / photo Tao Ruspoli

PHOTO / Dolce Chez Lulu / Photo © Courtesy of Chez Lulu



The story continues next door to the restaurant, where the couple opened a delicatessen store Au Frigo de Lulu, for Italian dishes, sweets and gourmet products.

 

What would Hyères be without Lulu?



 



INDEX



THE INSTIGATOR / Castello Ruspoli / photo Tao Ruspoli


COVER

Chez Lulu

Photo © Courtesy of Chez Lulu

Cover design © ZOLTAN+MEDIA Paris


BAR RESTAURANT

Chez Lulu

Hyères (France)


PHOTOGRAPHERS

© Chez Lulu


VISUALS & WEBDESIGN

© Zoltan Alexander ZOLTAN+MEDIA Paris

 

WEB LINK

 



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