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Art & Culture magazine
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PHOTOS / "The Revolutionary Jeweler" by Pomellato / Photos © courtesy of Zoltan Alexander
POMELLATO
PALAIS DE TOKYO
PARIS
THE REVOLUTIONARY JEWELER
The Italian jewellery house Pomellato’s first exhibition in Paris, at the Palais de Tokyo, explores the revolution that has shaped the Maison since 1967, spanning style, craftsmanship, master photography, and the power of women.
Curated by Alba Cappellieri, professor and Head of the Jewellery Design Department at the Politecnico di Milano, the exhibition defines the identity and the unique, unconventional vision of the house through some of the world’s greatest photographers, including Helmut Newton, Herb Ritts, Snowdon, Albert Watson, Gian Paolo Barbieri, and Michel Comte. Their black and white photography is simply breathtaking.
Vibrant gemstones became a field of audacious experimentation, where chromatic intensity, unexpected cuts and settings express emotion and character.
Founded in Milan in 1967, Pomellato’s unconventional creative spirit shaped a new vocabulary in jewellery and introduced a new approach to design through bold style, sensual volumes, effortless elegance, and the incredible force of women.
They were certainly the first to combine revolutionary design with powerful photography, sharp portraits of men and women, although the collection at the time was only destined for women.
They empowered men and women through the values of self-expression and freedom, celebrating femininity and masculine beauty, which is inclusive and well beyond stereotypes.
“The revolutionary jeweler / Le joaillier révolutionnaire” by Pomellato
Palais de Tokyo, Paris (France)
24 June - 20 July 2026
PHOTOS / BOLORIA by Olivier Theyskens / Photos © courtesy of Boloria
BOLORIA
OLIVIER THEYSKENS
HAUTE COUTURE
SPRING/SUMMER 2026
PARIS
THE FLOATING THEYSKENS
A day before the Haute Couture week, Belgian designer Olivier Theyskens presented his debut collection for Boloria, introducing the vision and identity of the newly established fashion house.
“I wanted to express that the brand has a past… maybe more than 100 years. I wanted to show that what the house had created still exists in the present. The collection is named ”Le Monde Flottant” – it is all about the present and what it carries from the remnants of the past.” Olivier Theyskens
In this first chapter, Theyskens looks at the codes of historical references that blend seamlessly into a deeply contemporary vision. Based on his immense knowledge and experience in fashion, he creates a collection defining a style, mature allure, craftsmanship and poetry for the house.
His references are refined; dreams and reality intertwine to create a wardrobe designed for all genders. Instead of borrowing masculine codes for womenswear, Theyskens dissolves the distinction altogether. Tailoring became the foundation of his language. It is more than just a succession of silhouettes; the elongated, slender proportions convey a timeless elegance.
Theyskens envisions a wardrobe with an enduring spirit, capable of accompanying lives far beyond a runway show. For a change, it is a collection built on quality, experience, poetry and not marketing.
BOLORIA / Haute Couture SPRING/SUMMER 2026
Paris
PHOTOS / L'ANDAM 2026 / Photos © courtesy of Zoltan Alexander
L'ANDAM
PRIX L'AURÉAT 2026
PARIS
L'ANDAM IN THE PALAIS ROYAL
L’ANDAM - National Association for the Development of the Fashion Arts - was founded in 1989 by Nathalie Dufour, with the French Ministry of Culture. It was conceived as a structure for recognising and assisting young designers on the French and international fashion scene.
Following the success of last year's winners, the Grand Prix went to Meryll Rogge, the Special Prix to Alin Paul, the Prix Pierre Bergé to Burc Akyol, and the Prix Accessoires to Sarah Levy.
In 2026, the distinguished jury was composed by Burc Akyol, Sophie Fontanel, Ines de la Fressange, Lyas, Jean-Jacques Picart, Renzo Rosso, Laetetia Toupet, Sydney Tolenado, and Alexandre de Betak, amongst others.
… and the winners are?
THE INSTIGATOR covered the event last night, and the winners are this year :
Marie Adam-Leenaerdt / Grand Prix
Anthony Calydon / Prix Pierre Bergé
Pauline Dujancourt / Special Prize
Philéo Landowski / Accessories Prize
Alphalyr / Innovation
L’ANDAM
Paris (France)
VIDEO / YSL SUMMER 2027 / Video © courtesy of THE INSTIGATOR
PHOTOS / VIDEO / YSL SUMMER 2027 / Photos / Video © courtesy of YSL
YSL
ANTHONY VACCARELLO
MENS
SPRING/SUMMER 2027
PARIS
YSL IN THE FOG
At the Saint Laurent show yesterday, fashion celebrities leaped into the Bourse de Commerce, from the extreme Parisian heat wave, and seconds later disappeared in the fog. Thanks to the art installation of Japanese artist Fujiko Nakaya’s fog sculpture that is part of the current exhibition “Clair Obscure.”
NOTE: In our ART column, we have already covered his installation at the Bourse de Commerce, which is always a perfect frame for the Saint Laurent shows.
The water vapour actually felt very refreshing in the 40°C summer heat. Models stepped in and out of the fog, looking very chic. The art installation, titled “Cloud #07145”, fitted perfectly into Vaccarello's narrative about restraint as a form of seduction. He surprised us with elongated jackets in languid fabrics and pronounced shoulders; some jackets were styled with leather briefs, and trench coats dipped in gold. We also saw some unusual shoe designs from snoutnose to transparent plastic ones.
Vaccarello jockingly added after the show: “Why torture women with plastic shoes, but not men?”
“We wanted to lighten the silhouette, strip away the jacket structures, and make everything truly fluid and softer, creating a sensuality in the movement. It is a diverse, old-school mix with something very contemporary.” Anthony Vaccarello
And the verdict? There is still no amount of fog that could obscure Vaccarello’s talent.
YSL / MENS SUMMER 2027
Paris
PHOTOS / PRADA SPRING / SUMMER 2027 / Photos © courtesy of PRADA
PRADA
MIUCCIA PRADA
RAF SIMONS
MENS
SPRING/SUMMER 2027
MILAN
SKINNY PRADA
When Prada awakens the fashion experts, and they all scream, “Ahhh, I am so bored with oversized”, and others “I’m so bored with skinny”, like nothing else matters in life.
When we cannot look at a collection subjectively, because there is always a reason behind. We just clap and love, and often do not know why. Is fashion about feeling simply good, having fun, and being a bit crazy, or is it simply marketing for an Instagram Story show-off?
“And God Created Woman” (1956) by Roger Vadim.
Then Prada created the body for this season.
At least 20 kg off of your current weight.
They did not create a new look; they brought skinny back. The factual heroin-chic is back, until it’s not. There was nothing new in this collection, nothing fresh; although the designers called it an easy, simplified, minimalised collection, but what is easy about skin-tight jeans? They did not renounce innovation, or was it from the head-to-toe skinny jeans, skinny t-shirts, skinny leather, shrunken little bomber jackets, the Simons-Slimane look from 2000?!?
Don’t get us wrong, we love it when a designer takes a new turn, a bold risk, a counter-current look, and shows something radically different. But we don’t want just Panem et Circenses! A style still has to serve three things. It needs identity, it needs to be aspirational, and it needs to be reasonably wearable.
In this collection, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons did not deliver it. However, there are already some journalists and so-called fashion “experts” who scream that “skinny is back, skinny is back”, as if they would have any power over us to change our minds so easily. They forget one small detail: that we are already tired of their comments and certainly tired of this look.
The only question remains: Who has even asked for this?
Prada / Mens SPRING / SUMMER 2027
Milano
EAU RIHLA
Eau Rihla, one of the most significant perfumes of Diptyque Paris, created by Fabrice Pellegrin, was released during the 60th anniversary of the company.
Rihla, in Arabic, means journey, but not any kind. A voyage is not always measured by distance but by imagination. It’s physical, as well as metaphysical, and Eau Rihla evokes both.
We tested Diptyque’s most mysterious and protective perfume - sensual, discreet, powerful and aspirational.
The scent’s characteristics will touch your inner senses and will take you on an unforeseen voyage.
“Eau Rihla” / Diptyque
Paris (France)
DIPTYQUE
EAU RIHLA
PARIS
PHOTO / "Eau Rhila" by Diptyque Paris / Photo-montage © Courtesy of Zoltan Alexander
PHOTO / "Eau Rihla" by Diptyque Paris / Photo © Courtesy of Malin Oredsson
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